Thursday, April 23, 2009

Jail Break Free

This is a photo of Pete on Jail Break

I finally free climbed Jail Break. It’s been a long trip. In the fall of 1996 I spent a few days cleaning the route, mostly taking loose blocks off the top 5 metres. I never tried to climb the route. It would have been too hard for me way back then anyway, but the line was a beauty. Then in April 2004 Carman G. and Grant M. aid climbed (jail Break) the steep broken cracks. So jump forward to a few weeks ago in the beginning of April, I through down an exploratory top rope with Manuel, quickly scrubbed and knocked loose crap off. We TR’ed short sections and it was seeping in a few spot, but I verified for sure that it was doable. It only took maybe 6-8 hrs to scrub, top rope and bolt over a few days. My redpoint came on my 5th attempt in 3 days. I botched 2 of the sequences and almost pumped out after the crux but climbed on the victory.

Jail Break,5.12a,***, 18m, 9bolts, FFA john Waters & Andy Brown. Climbed old aid route at cell block. At 2/3 height continue straight up steep jugs/flakes rather than slant left up the original finish. Awesome line.

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